Saturday, 6 July 2013

On the Revolutionary Trail

The entrance to Quincy Market
What better way to celebrate July 4 Independence Day than to be in Boston, where the Tea Party ignited revolution that led to the establishment of the United State of America in 1776. We also happen to be arriving on a British ship…

Revolutionary Paul Revere
We arrived in the late morning and got a shuttle bus to Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall in the downtown core. The latter was a gift from French merchant Peter Faneuil in 1742 to be a place for town meetings and a public market, while Quincy Market is an extension of Faneuil Hall. Today both are tourist areas selling decadent-looking Italian and Greek desserts, caramel-covered apples, ice cream, pizzas and kebabs, as well as souvenirs.

After a short break we started on a free tour of the Freedom Trail, where visitors can retrace the steps of the revolutionary activists that eventually led to the colonies gaining independence.

And one of the most prominent was Paul Revere, the son of a French silversmith. We saw the brick home where he was born and the wooden house he lived in with his two successive wives and 16 children next door.

Paul Revere's wooden house
He was instrumental in passing messages along to other revolutionaries in other towns and in the end was richly rewarded with building up his business by establishing a foundry and producing his own line of silverware products. One of his sons went to Harvard to become a doctor, another took over the family business and created Revereware, a line of cookware. Eventually the business was bought over, though the Revere family continues to this day.

Other Freedom Trail sites are the Old South Meeting House that was originally built in 1729 as a Puritan church that hosted many town meetings, including those about the Boston Massacre and Boston Tea Party; the Old North Church, where Revere rang the bells here as a child and where he alerted the sexton to flash the famous lanterns to warn the British troops were coming.

The Public Garden inspires an Impressionist painting
We then took the subway to see the Public Garden, a large beautiful public space with lots of flowers and trees. We saw a large statue in the distance and it seemed to be wearing some kind of cloth.

As we approached we soon realized it was George Washington astride a horse and wearing a Boston Bruins jersey – or a polyester version of it. He seemed to be beaming with pride wearing the hockey jersey.

We headed underground again to quickly wander the grounds of Harvard, a gorgeous leafy compound with old brick buildings, and then to MIT where we took pictures in front of the domed building.

George Washington and his Bruins jersey
As the subway train crossed the Charles River, we saw lots of boats in the river, waiting for the Independence Day fireworks to begin in the evening. It was quite an impressive sight. Earlier in the day before disembarking we saw the parade of ships, including the USS Constitution that only makes its appearance once a year, and apparently it is a special honour for those in the navy to be able to be on it on July 4.

In the evening around 11pm we managed to catch some of the fireworks in the distance from the cruise ship, which added to the festive atmosphere as well as the big band we had playing in the Queens Room.

What I particularly like about Boston is there is so much history attached to the city, much of it kept, compared to Hong Kong. I hope to go through the Freedom Trail in more depth next time.

The Ames Building
It was also wonderful to see the gorgeous architecture, and already one of my favourite buildings there is the Ames Building, the second-largest structure in the city made entirely of stone – no steel. It has Byzantine designs on the façade that also make it a gorgeous building to look at.


Canadian History Revisited

Entrance to the Citadel
We arrived in Halifax on Day 3 of the cruise. It seemed chilly at 16.5 degrees and overcast, but we were lucky and the sun came out and it warmed up. We thought the best way to cover the most ground was to join one of the Gray Line Big Pink Sightseeing double decker buses that cover three different routes.

Detail of the cannon
Each are equipped with knowledgeable guides who give a lot of historical information as well as fun anecdotes. For example, at the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, the cannon is fired at noon everyday and has done so for over 200 years.

When then US President Bill Clinton came for the G8 Summit, the noonday gun went off and the secret police pulled him down to the ground. It seemed the local security officials forgot to inform the US secret agents about this noonday gun, but really it's been a tradition since Prince Edward Duke of Kent ordered the daily firing since 1749.

Posing with the Noon Day Cannon fired everyday since 1749
We visited the site, which is a throwback to the colonial era, with "soldiers" in kilts and other traditional regalia. The fort was apparently impenetrable thanks to the very deep and wide ditch. And we did hear the noon day gun which was very loud!

My knowledge of Nova Scotia is not much even though I studied Canadian history in high school, but it was slowly came back to me today. It was colonized by the British in the 18th century and the Citadel was the first military base to protect the 13 colonies.

Nova Scotia was founded by Edward Cornwallis in 1749 and he named it after the Second Earl of Halifax, who was then president of the Board of Trade in London. Prince Edward later developed the town.

Statue of Sir Winston Churchill
Halifax has lots of things that are designated "the oldest", such as Province House being the oldest legislative building; St Paul's Church is the oldest Protestant church in Canada; the Halifax Public Gardens are the oldest Victorian-style gardens in the country.

We did see the Public Gardens on Spring Garden Road and well worth wandering around in. While there are wide gravel paths, visitors are encouraged to walk on the grass and admire the flowers and shrubbery up close. We were quite amazed by the massive rhododendron bush that had a small entrance in it like a hut, while the pond in the middle of the garden looked like it would have inspired Monet to paint.

Nova Scotia has also witnessed some tragedies, such as the Halifax Explosion in 1917 when the French munitions ship Mont Blanc rammed the Belgian steamer, Imo. The 3,000 ton cargo of TNT exploded, instantly killing 2,000 people and the power of the explosion was second only to the atomic bombs at Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Get your McLobster now at McDonald's!
Another was the rescue but later recovery of bodies from the ill-fated Titanic. The bodies of the dead were laid out on the pier that still stands today. They were then placed on horse-drawn carriages and buried in a nearby cemetery.

Another must in Nova Scotia is the lobster and what did we have for lunch? By the suggestion of one of the guides on the tour buses, we headed for McDonald's where we had a McLobster! It's a long hot-dog-like bun filled with chopped lobster mixed with mayonnaise and spring onion, along with diced lettuce for about CAD$7 each. For that price it was quite impressive for the fast-food chain to be so gourmet, but you can only find it around this time in Nova Scotia.

The beautiful public park on Spring Garden Road
One more interesting fact about the place is that Sir Samuel Cunard, who founded the British and North American Steam Packet Company – known as Cunard Line in 1839 – was born in Halifax.

And right by the pier is a statue of Cunard – and we promptly took a picture of him with our ship – the Queen Mary 2.


Two Fascinating Men

David Steinberg with Johnny Carson on the Tonight Show
On the plane from Hong Kong to Vancouver, I watched two documentaries on two inspiring people.
The first was David Steinberg, who is best known as the director of such comedy series as Mad About You, Seinfeld and Curb Your Enthusiasm.
 
What I didn't know is that Steinberg is actually from Winnipeg, Manitoba. His Romanian Orthodox parents along with his three older siblings moved there and then David came along – quite by accident. When he was born, his brothers and sisters were much older than him and that quickly influenced his personality because his parents had finished parenting so to speak and with David they practically left him to his own devices.
 
According to his older sister he was very popular in school, always kidding around and at home because his father was a rabbi, there was the culture of storytelling around the dinner table. 
 
When he grew up, Steinberg was expected to follow his father's footsteps and become a rabbi too and went to Chicago to further his studies. However, as Steinberg recalls, he was more interested in the beautiful women on campus and saw a group of them go into a theatre building and followed them.
 
It turns out there was an audition for Candide and the then theatre professor asked him what he was doing there. Steinberg, having no idea what Candide was, said that he was interested in joining other "Candidians". The professor immediately saw Steinberg's sense of humour and acting ability and got him doing minor parts, like playing different pieces of furniture.
 
But then Steinberg started seeing comedy shows and quickly realized this was something that he wanted to do and abandoned his religious studies. He did acts in a small bar but then there were fewer and fewer people watching him and he knew the bar owner would tell him to move on.
However, it turned out a theatre critic from The New York Times had watched him and pronounced him as the one to watch. From then onwards he was able to join Second City where he really began to flourish.
 
Curb Your Enthusiasm's Larry David with David Steinberg
With improv, the comedians had to work together, reading each other to know what the next line would be. Not only that, it's all about timing and the beat to get the most laughs. One of his best acts was The Sermon. Since he practically knew the Old Testament by heart, Steinberg would deliver "a sermon" that poked fun at The Bible. "As God said in his redundant way…" he would say, and point out contradicting things in the stories or how they made no sense, this particular act gained a lot of attention for Steinberg.
 
He would go on to do this for The Smothers Brothers, that would get them off the air because the TV stations thought Steinberg's act was too controversial at the time. 
 
While Steinberg's star was rising, there was an opportunity for him to do Broadway plays in New York and he thought he'd reached the big time. However, each successive one flopped and he retreated with his tail between his legs. So he stuck to improv and standup.
 
Perhaps Steinberg's best endorser was Johnny Carson. It took five tries for him to get on the show because it seemed every guest before him would talk longer so there was never enough time for him to go on. But when he finally did, he and Carson immediately clicked, particularly when conversing on the couch. One could see Carson listening to the young Steinberg talking and seeing how they could play off each other, which they did brilliantly.
 
Carson enjoyed having Steinberg on so much that he became a regular guest and even guest hosted. Did I also mention he was very dashing in his youth? He seemed to have a carefree, easy-going manner that made him even more appealing.
 
After he got married and had children, Steinberg knew that he couldn't keep doing improv nor travel around doing standup forever. So he switched to directing – and in television. For many comedians this is a strange career turn, as one would think they'd want to continue to be the star of the show. Also television was considered the last resort for washed up actors. 
 
But in Steinberg's case it was a brilliant move because he had stage experience and had the comedy background. He directed Friends, Designing Women, Mad About You and then of course the hit run of Seinfeld and then Curb Your Enthusiasm.
 
 The other documentary I watched is called Jason Becker: Not Dead Yet. I had listened to the CBC radio interview with the director along with Jason Becker and his father and was riveting.
 
Becker was on the cusp of stardom at the age of 20 when he was hired to be the guitarist for David Lee Roth. But on the eve of the tour, Becker was diagnosed with ALS and his dream of showing the world his guitar virtuosity crashed.
 
Jason Becker: Not Dead Yet chronicles the life of Becker from when he was a child and how he learned guitar at a young age. His father taught him but soon the young Becker was so attached to the instrument, constantly playing it everywhere – even sleeping with it – that his father admitted his son was now the teacher. 
 
He quickly gravitated to the electric guitar along with the long locks, but he was hardly a rebel and loved his family very much. Early videos of him playing guitar at high school talent shows already demonstrate his brilliance. 
 
The young Jason Becker
Not only did Becker play metal music, but also Bach fugues too. He learned from a jazz musician who taught him the fundamentals not only in technique but also counterpoint as well which would set Becker apart from the rest.
 
His father sent cassette demos around and it caught the ear of a record producer. He invited Becker to play with Marty Friedman who was much older.
 
At first Friedman was reticent about meeting this young teen and was skeptical about how good Becker was. When the two of them met, Friedman got Becker to copy what he did, and he not only executed better, but even added flourishes Friedman hadn't even thought of before. They became fast friends.
 
Word spread about Becker and he soon caught the attention of David Lee Roth's band who were looking for a guitarist to replace Steve Vai who went on to join Whitesnake. They invited Becker to play and were thoroughly impressed. They started recording in Vancouver and it was basically Becker's first time away from home. He was such a good boy that he bought flowers for the woman who cleaned his room every day in the hotel.
 
Soon they were preparing to tour, but then Becker's leg would go soft and he couldn't walk as much or he had trouble carrying his stuff and would attribute it to having the heavy loads. His parents implored him to get checked out, and it took him a while to do that.
 
And when he did, he found out he had ALS and only had three years to live. He had no clue what it was or what was going to happen to him, so he didn't tell the band what had happened to him, hoping the cocktail of pills would help him keep the muscle-wasting disease under control.
 
But it was inevitable Becker would have to tell them and it was perhaps the hardest thing he had to do – walk away from what could have been his chance at stardom. His parents were very disappointed too, not only seeing their son slowly degenerate into someone who walked with canes and then was confined to a wheelchair and had to have a feeding tube, but also this was a huge financial strain on them.
 
Jason Becker today continues actively to compose music
Eventually it got too hard for Becker to talk and his father created a board with letter on it so that Becker could look at each letter and the reader could spell out the word and figure out what he wanted to communicate. The family has the board memorized so they now just look at him and can tell which letters he is thinking of. 
 
Not only that but there are computer programs now to help Becker compose music, albeit in a very slow process, but bit by bit he has managed to compose pieces. Every year there is a day to celebrate Becker's life and everyone comes out to see him, including Friedman, who went on to play with Megadeath. 
 
It is Becker's parents who have been the most supportive of Becker, along with a team of dieticians and medical staff who feed him organic vegetables and seeds that are ground up into a smoothie and then injected into a feeding tube. Doctors are amazed when they see him because his skin colour looks good for someone in his condition – in fact no one expected him to live as long as he has now, hence the name of the documentary.
 
It's so sad to see Becker, but at the same time his determination to contribute to society and make his life as fulfilling as possible. One wonders how he will do once his parents cannot physically look after him or are gone; his parents worry, but it seems it is a bridge they will cross when they get there.

Monday, 1 July 2013

Day Two in NYC: WTC Memorial to Punk Couture


The South Reflecting Pool
Today we went downtown to check out the World Trade Center Memorial site. If you plan to go there, it's a good idea to order the free tickets online to avoid the big lineup when you get there. We were able to breeze past those who had yet to get tickets.

However, security in the area seemed excessively tight. First there was someone to check we had tickets in hand. Then we had to get the actual tickets scanned and go through a security check. Another person checked our tickets again and marked them with a marker, and when we finally arrived at the site, we were checked one more time we had our tickets in hand.

Some of the names of the victims surround the pool
It was really hot and sunny when we arrived and while there are lots of trees on the site, they are very young ones not offering much shade. The museum is not finished yet, so the only things to see here are the two reflection pools, called North and South.

They are giant dark squares lined with the names of the victims in no particular order and then there are large waterfalls on each side the water falls into a flat serene area and then that water falls gently into a smaller square that seems like an abyss. 

It was a strange atmosphere – while people are there to see for themselves what happened on September 11, 2001, they have no attachment to the place other than adding this as another place to visit on their list in New York. 

The Flag of Honor made of the names of the victims
As a result, while we should be respectful of this place for the dead, it has essentially become a tourist site, so it's uncomfortable to be here. One interesting bright spot is the survivor tree, a pear tree that survived the attacks. While it was severely burned, the tree was nursed back to life and replanted back in its spot.

Also strangely crass is the gift shop… it's understandable money is needed to run the museum and pay for all the security staff, but it's uncomfortable buying books about 9/11, particularly on the investigation, or buying a poster featuring all the names of the dead that make an American flag even though a fraction of the victims weren't even American.

After that I headed uptown to The Metropolitan Museum of Art where my friend Amy and I checked out "Punk: From Chaos to Couture". I read an article in The New Yorker about the curator Andrew Bolton who grew up in 1980s England and was keen to put this exhibit together as a labour of love.

The Survivor Peach Tree
The exhibit was a follow-up to his outstanding success with the Alexander McQueen "Savage Beast" show that drew long line-ups everyday and the museum had to extend its hours to let everyone see it.
However a brilliant designer who has an eye for the fantastical and at the same time quality tailoring is one thing, while the punk show was mostly about ripped clothes with provocative messages and graphics that have influenced haute couture were quite another.

Punk was about being subversive, challenging the establishment and creating something new. Do-it-yourself was important to the punk movement to show its fierce, independent spirit.

It began with Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood and their People are Heroes shop. She produced all kinds of T-shirts that called for attention, such as tops with a picture of breasts in the right place, profanity and outrageous graphics, such as "Black Footballer" that featured a naked mail black man stands holding a football, or even Mickey shagging Minnie… how is this art?

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Fashion took the punk idea and designers created collections around them, from Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel and Gianni Versace, to Commes des Garcons, Stephen Sprouse, and Rodarte – though we note the designers of trendy Rodarte weren't embryos when the punk movement began.

Some outfits were glammed up like the black safety pin Versace dress Elizabeth Hurley wore, to Dolce & Gabbana's fabrics splattered with fresh paint and then created into ballroom gowns. Others had lots of spikey studs in their clothing, which interestingly are definitely in fashion today, as well as fishnet stockings.

Others were avant garde with broken porcelain connected together by wire and made into a waist coat, while others took a cheeky shot at environmentalism by making tops out of garbage bags, as well as skirts. Some had strips of garbage bags sewn together and made into an haute couture dress.

We particularly liked Commes des Garcons that had a more refined sense of style with unfinished clothing, from jackets and pants to skirts that are layered onto the model in what looks like a haphazard way, but we're sure there is probably some method to the madness.

So while we understand the theme and what Bolton the curator had hoped to achieve, it was pretty tenuous and trying to fill several rooms with clothes. The exhibition did show how punk has influenced us throughout the years until the present, but what does that mean in the end?

Are we still trying to find our independent spirit, or is it a desperate way for the establishment to take advantage of something they think will sell?