Thursday, 18 July 2013

Washington's Capitol and its Presidents

A reflective Capitol out front
OK OK One more posting on Washington! Just too much to write about DC!

The ornate ceiling inside is very impressive
Another must visit is Capitol Hill. It's very impressive to see it in person after seeing it off in the distance when TV reporters talk about Congress.

Inside, there's a relatively new visitor's centre (opened in 2008) in the basement, where tourists are first ushered into a relatively fast-moving line to get into an auditorium to first watch a non-partisan film about the Capitol and what politicians do there.

Then we got a bright young guide called Mackenzie (a young woman), who gave us a tour of the place where we all wore headsets that could let us hear her talk into her microphone. This was definitely a relief from mainland Chinese groups with guides using megaphones to broadcast their knowledge.
Rosa Parks is the latest addition to Capitol

Basically the areas we could see could be a museum rather than an office for working politicians; we saw statues placed everywhere, giving historical context to the place. But the main theme was "e pluribus unum" or "out of many one" which is the phrase of the Seal of the United States.

The Rotunda featured statues of a who's who of American presidents in no particular order, including Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, Dwight Eisenhower, Ronald Regan, Gerald Ford, Andrew Jackson, James Garfield, Ulysses S. Grant, and Abraham Lincoln. There are other non-presidents, such as one of the founding fathers Alexander Hamilton, Martin Luther King Jr and three women in recognition of their right to vote.

Lincoln's photograph in the Portrait Gallery
We were then ushered into the former House of Representatives and Mackenzie explained to us that has the number of states grew, the room got too crowded. But there was another reason, thanks to the room's arched ceilings that created the parabolic effect. We stood at one end without our headphones on while Mackenzie went to the other side and in her speaking voice we could hear her quite clearly. And as a result people had to talk louder and louder, making the room too noisy!

So in 1857 the House of Representatives was moved to its current house chamber and former room is now filled with again more statues. Each state is allowed to contribute two statues in bronze or marble.

Two interesting statues are the one of Florida's John Corrie, the inventor of air conditioning, and the recently installed Rosa Parks who is not a contribution from any state. And most suitably, she is sitting with a look of determination that she will gain the same rights as white people.
Norman Rockwell's depiction of Richard Nixon

If you want to see your representatives in action, you have to find their office across the street and get a pass from them before entering, and likewise foreigners go to a special office and must show their passports to get a special pass too.

Another interesting place to visit is the Smithsonian's Portrait Gallery, and in there the most interesting room is the one featuring the presidential portraits. There are of course many portraits of Abraham Lincoln, but we also saw ones of Washington, a very kind portrayal of Richard Nixon by Norman Rockwell, an energetic but what looks like a half-finished portrait of John F Kennedy, and a bizarre one of Bill Clinton by Chuck Close that needs to be looked at from a distance. There's one of George W Bush too, but very bland.
An abstract Bill Clinton by Chuck Close


Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Washington's Beloved Library of Congress





The Library of Congress is filled with some 35 million books and counting
Just a few more things about Washington before we write up about Philadelphia.

We had a great tour of the Library of Congress and Capitol Hill. The guides make all the difference as we found on our trip. That's how the information sticks and you remember it a long time afterwards.

The Library of Congress opened in 1897 and it is the oldest federal cultural institution in the United States. In 1783 James Madison who later became the fourth president, proposed the idea of having a library of congress. That's because at the time, people had their own libraries, but would have to travel by horseback to retrieve books from home if they were in Philadelphia.

The entrance with Minerva, the goddess of wisdom and war
As a result with the creation of a new institution, this meant needing books on history, legislative process as well as any other publications of use. Our guide told us that in 1789 Congress moved to New York from Philadelphia and then 11 years later to Washington, when the library purchased 740 books and maps.

When the Capitol was built, there was a covered walkway and the library was located on the west side of the Senate. According to our guide, the only reason it was situated there was because there was more light!

However in 1814 during the War of 1812, the British burned down the Capitol as well as White House. Afterwards Thomas Jefferson offered to sell his books to the library which was contentious, as he put a price tag on them, but it was a quick way to rebuild the collection.

In the end a year later Jefferson's books were bought and moved to the rebuilt library, followed by Madison's books and those of John Adams.

The compass showing knowledge comes from all directions
But then in 1851 there was another fire in which only one-third of Jefferson's books survived. You can see the actual books in the Library of Congress in a bookshelf behind glass which is quite neat. The library is obviously trying to rebuild the original collection, with the original books marked with green tags, followed by ones bought later and then holes for the books yet to be found.

The Library now got its own building and in 1876 there was a design competition. The building was finally opened in 1897 -- on time and on budget. It also proved to people outside of the US that Americans could build their own palace of books.

What makes the Library so stunning is its Euro-centric interior, filled with the Italian Renaissance style, carved white marble and has courtyards. Some 800 tons of books were moved into the space.

Our guide also told us the Library is designed as a public space, geared towards families with murals on the walls showing children with their parents, showing knowledge and the transmission of information.

The Gutenberg Bible behind a glass case. Anyone read Latin?
The mosaics on the walls were created in Italy and then installed in the Library. In the main entrance is a sculpture of Minerva, the goddess of wisdom and war. She is meant to show that America is a well defended country and offers opportunities, giving citizens peace and prosperity.

Meanwhile there is a compass on the floor, showing that knowledge comes from all directions and comes back in all directions as well.

We got to see the 1452 Gutenberg Bible, one of four complete copies on vellum. It's a huge book, the ink in black and the red lettering was added later.

After a short wait we were allowed to look into the Reading Room -- where people can actually request books and read them. It's a reference library so books cannot be taken out like other public libraries. Anyone over 16 years of age can take a look at books, showing either their ID or passport if they are not American citizens.

Shhh! Inside the Reading Room
Inside the octagonal-shaped room, it's very majestic, with high ceilings and marble, arches and mosaics. The Library now has over 35 million books and there is an online catalogue so there are fewer people physically going into the Library.

The Library also has some interesting special exhibitions. One of them is of poet, essayist and journalist Walt Whitman. There is a glass case showing his leather bag with a flap overtop. He strongly believed in the power of kind attention and "personal magnetism" to help wounded and ill soldiers to heal.

Using this leather bag, he would bring them foods and small gifts to raise their spirits, as well as spend time talking to them.

One of the many sayings: "Beauty is truth, truth beauty"
There's another interesting exhibition showing the contents of Abraham Lincoln's pockets the night he was assassinated on April 14, 1865. In his overcoat he was carrying: two spectacles (one of which was mended with a piece of string), a lens polisher, pocket knife, watch fob, linen handkerchief and a leather wallet containing a five-dollar Confederate note, eight newspaper clippings and a calling card.

Eerie, but only makes the Library of Congress a really cool place to check out.

Monday, 15 July 2013

Washington's Memorials

The Lincoln Memorial is more dramatic lit up at night and less people too!
To say there are a lot of memorials in the United States' capital is an understatement. Everywhere you look in Washington there's some kind of memorial, particularly to American presidents and commemorating major events. We checked out a few of the famous ones.

The Washington Monument being repaired
On our first night in DC we headed to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial which is near the Lincoln Memorial. It was already after dinner so it was dark, but in a way it makes the visit even more dramatic.

A large V-shape, both ends start off with a small triangular piece of black granite that quickly grows into large slabs taller than a person, towering over you, each covered in names. They seem to be organized by year, perhaps to make it easier for loved ones to find the names of victims.

The feeling is completely overwhelming -- to see so many names -- 58,286 of them -- as you walk by them. Some people leave behind small American flags, flowers and notes. During the time we visited, a park ranger carried a small cardboard box as he picked up the items left behind.

The names of the soldiers who died in Vietnam on granite
He told one visitor that they collect lots of flags (which they distribute to people later), notes, sometimes money (which he doesn't understand why), notes, and one time even found human remains (ashes) which they respectfully disposed of.

The collecting of these items is usually done in the evening so that visitors don't see it and the memorial is kept relatively clean.

We next headed to the Lincoln Memorial, which seemed like a beacon, lit up and beckoning people to visit. When you walk up the large steps of the temple, it's humbling to see the giant status of the 16th president.

Soldiers depicted in action during the Korean War
Inside are also housed some of his writings on the walls, mostly talking about freedom and democracy. What's great about going in the evening is that there are fewer people there making it easier to take photographs; but it's even more dramatic at night which makes it even better.

Where he sits he looks out onto the Washington Monument and beyond that Capitol Hill.

After visiting Lincoln, we made a visit to the Korean War Veterans Memorial nearby, where there are statues of soldiers in action, wearing helmets and ponchos with weapons in hand. It's kind of scary seeing them lit up at night, their faces filled with fear.

Thomas Jefferson standing tall
The memorial also recognizes other countries that participated in the Korean War including Canada and Belgium.

On our final day in Washington, we first went to see the Jefferson Memorial, which is located by the Potomac River, making it a beautiful photography opportunity. And like the Lincoln Memorial, visitors pay homage to Thomas Jefferson, his large dark statue housed in side the round temple-like structure. He is surrounded by his words, carved into the walls for posterity.

Then you can do a short walk around the river where you will come across the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial. It's quite large, in that it's spread out horizontally in various sections. Here you can see the progression of sound bites thanks to the media, as his words are much shorter and to the point.

Approaching it from the Jefferson Memorial, you encounter a statue of his wife Eleanor first, who was the first US representative to the United Nations Commission on Human Rights, helping to draft the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

Scottish terrier Fala with Frankling Delano Roosevelt
In between the sections are lots of rock formations and waterfalls before we see a large bronze statue of Roosevelt in a chair wearing a cloak with his dog Fala by his side. There was some controversy over whether he should be portrayed in a wheelchair to show his disability because this was not portrayed during his time, but disability-rights activists wanted to have an accurate portrayal of him.

Finally at the end of the walk we come to the latest addition -- the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial. It's very large -- 30ft tall where he is carved out of white stone. Again there was some controversy over the statue being executed by mainland Chinese artist Lei Yixin, because human rights activist Harry Wu pointed out Lei had done a statue of Mao Zedong.

Martin Luther King Jr emerges from the rock
But the organizers said Lei was chosen on artistic ability by a mostly African-American design team.

Some claim King's likeness in the statue makes him look stern, but I don't think so. He has become a must photograph for many African-Americans who visit the site, whereas Chinese ones take pictures there because of the artist.

Afterwards we got into a cab to head to the White House and our taxi driver remarked, "Why is it that Jefferson is black and Martin Luther King Jr is white?"

Interesting observation...




Sunday, 14 July 2013

Power Lunch at the Old Ebbitt Grill

Lots of tourists and police milling around in front of the White House
A trip to Washington isn't complete without a trip to the White House. Unfortunately because of budget cuts, tourists aren't allowed in anymore, but we got the obligatory photo in front.

One of the bars at the Old Ebbitt Grill
The White House looks much smaller than you think, and if you look closely, there are snipers on the roof. They are there because you can see the tripods they have ready to place weapons on them for a clear shot. According to our chatty taxi driver, the snipers show up when US President Barack Obama is about to leave or come in.

There's lots of auxiliary police cars and security staff on hand around the area, though everyone there just wants a photo. Across the street is a lone protester who has lived in her tent there, protesting everyday for many years. She is calling for the end of nuclear weapons, but even though curious tourists visit her and see what she's protesting about, it doesn't seem like any of the presidents have listened to her.

The signature crab cakes on a bed of corn and tomato
Down at the end of the street is one of the more famous DC restaurants -- the Old Ebbitt Grill. It's an institution as it was established in 1856 by William E. Ebbitt who bought a boarding house. Since then has been the dining establishment of choice for presidents, senators and members of the house.

Once you walk in, it's very old school, with dark wood wall panelling, brass railings along the bar, red, white and blue-striped fabric draped around the dining area that is sectioned off for private conversation. The booth next to us seemed to be filled with lobbyists so we were in good company.

The hearty Reuben sandwich with pickles and fruit
The food is hearty American fare -- hamburgers, pasta, sandwiches, grilled fish and of course steak. One of the signature dishes is the crab cake which the waiter warned was a large portion and while they looked deceptively small, they were quite hearty, filled with meaty crab meat on a bed of corn and tomatoes.

We also had the Reuben, an extremely large rye bread sandwich filled with corned beef and sauerkraut, with pickles and fresh fruit on the side, the Italian sausage linguine and a trio of large shrimp tacos. We even got refills on our lemonade and coffee so by the end of the American-sized lunch, we were too full to even entertain dessert.

Service was great -- many tourists come here, and so the waiters are patient and are pleased to explain the history of the place. Hope to come back again and hang out in this power-broking restaurant.

An outside shot of the powerhouse dining establishment
Old Ebbitt Grill
675 15th Street NW
Washington DC
(202) 347 4800