Michelin Shines Stars in HK

Some of the chefs who received or retained one Michelin star

Just as Hong Kong is going through tough social-distancing measures that include not allowing restaurants to open beyond 6pm, the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2022 was announced this afternoon.

9 new restaurants gained one star today

There was a lot of anticipation of who would get the coveted star because there were several restaurants that opened this year, but sadly not all of them were recognised.

However, it is worth noting that nine new restaurants in the red guide received one star, and two were awarded two stars; no new three-star restaurants were named, though one dropped out.

I heard from one chef that three stars are only given when inspectors from outside the region have visited the restaurant to ensure it does deserve the top recognition, and since Hong Kong has had such severe travel and quarantine requirements that it has been nearly impossible for overseas inspectors to come here and also Macau.

Two restaurants moved up to two stars

Maybe that's why more restaurants were given one star, such as Singaporean-influenced Whey, South American inspired Mono, the popular Indian restaurant Chaat in Rosewood Hong Kong, and Ningbo restaurant Yong Fu. Interesting to note that Seventh Son was finally recognised when it has always produced top quality Cantonese cuisine and classic dishes that are rarely found in other restaurants.

Nevertheless it was fun to talk to chefs who had just received their accolades and they sounded so excited on the phone. For many of them it is a dream come true to win a star, and even more so when it is their own restaurant.

In a video broadcast during the ceremony, chef Manav Tuli of Chaat had tears in his eyes, so thrilled and so thankful to his team for all their hard work. He recalled that when they started after dinner service they still had to mop the floors. 

Restaurants here didn't change, one dropped

Octavium and Yan Toh Heen were both elevated in the two-star category. Bjoern Alexander of Octavium was so shocked that he said, "What the f***!" as soon as he was told the news in another video. He immediately hugged his co-chef Roland Schueller who looked happy but unfazed by all the fuss.

When Amber won a Green star for sustainability, chef Richard Ekkebus was caught completely off guard so it was a very nice surprise for him and his team to win the award. He said it was their fault for not communicating clearly to Michelin what their sustainability efforts were last year so they made it a priority to tell them exactly what they were doing. 

So it's not just about what's on the plate, but also how restaurants and chefs get their messages across.

But what happened to the restaurants we thought should have been in there? Estro for starters, a refined contemporary Neapolitan restaurant, but perhaps it opened too late in October (or maybe the inspectors couldn't get a seat), and same could be said for Rex Wine & Grill where guests can only get reservations if they know the chef or manager. What about Margo which opened in July? Perhaps chef Mario Paecke is just finding his feet now and will get a nod next year? We are also hoping the same for Batard.

Nevertheless in general everyone who was included in the guide was grateful to still be in there. Many cited the tough two to three years Hong Kong has had, and being able to survive and keep their stars is a massive achievement in itself which is true. 

Ekkebus in blue mask so excited with Green star

And now they are in yet another tough situation, trying to extend opening hours until 6pm and offer takeaway, it's long hours for the staff, who usually get a break in the afternoon, but now must work straight through. The bright spot is having the evenings off, but those are hours they could have made more money...

Everyone hopes the measures will be lifted by February 4, but now with hamster-geddon, with some 2,000 of the rodents being culled, and two new clusters that are emerging, it may be a while yet before restaurants can get back to regularly serving customers again...