Silk Road: Tianshan Lake

Tianshan Lake with its water source, the Tianshan Mountains in the back

Most places in Xinjiang get their water source from Tianshan Mountains, and Tianshan Lake is one of them. The lake is 1,907 metres above sea level and is 4.9 square kilometres, and 105 metres deep at its deepest point.

For lunch we had traditional Hui ethnic minority food

We drove several hours to get here, and after going through the ticket turnstiles. we had to board another tour bus to drive several kilometres up a winding road where we saw water rushing down natural gullies.

The bus dropped us off at the base, where we could then either take a golf cart up to the lake or walk up about a kilometre and I did the latter, a steady incline up through a wooded area which was refreshing and cool.

When we reached the lake, we first went to have lunch in a nearby restaurant that served Hui ethnic minority food. The specialty features nine dishes on a large square platter including a tureen of soup and of course some rice.

A panoramic view of Tianshan Lake (minus the helicopter)

The food were delicious, some of them a bit spicy, others not, like stewed fish, roasted chicken, minced meat wrapped in tofu like rolls and sliced thinly, thin slices of beef and glutinous rice.

On a full stomach it was the perfect time to walk around part of the lake. It is quite crystal clear, a deep aquamarine blue colour, and the snow-capped mountains -- the Tianshan Mountains -- in the distance.

The runoff from the Tianshan Mountains rushing down

While we were there, a helicopter seemed to be doing some filming as it hovered over the lake creating lots of ripples, which isn't normally the case. It seemed to be filming a ferry that was completely empty, perhaps for a promotional video.

But I have to admit the view was pretty impressive and reminded us of Lake Louise in in Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada.

The water that flows from Tianshan Mountains is very precious and the Uyghurs were very clever in figuring out how to use it effectively by creating an underwater canal system called karez in Uyghur that dates back to 103 BC. Without this water system, civilization in the area would not exist.

Karez were built to be able to send water at longer distances

Back thousands of years ago, the Uyghurs dug vertical wells for water. But they also built canals so that the wells were linked together horizontally and spread out as far as 5,000km.

They were able to figure out where to dig and how to ensure both ends would meet horizontally to carry water further from the water source. This in turn helped irrigate otherwise parched land to grow crops and also sustain people. As a result, this water system took several generations to build.

In total there were over 1,100 karez, but now only about 400 are functioning -- this will impact Turpan in terms of having enough water for everyone and climate change is also a big factor. What will happen when there is no more melting snow on the Tianshan Mountains? What will people do then?

Water rushing by from a karez as shown through the glass

It's a sad reality, which probably also explains why the water pressure in our hotel rooms were quite low and taking a shower took much longer than usual. But it is a good wake up call not to waste water, and that an impending drought could become a reality in Turpan and the surrounding areas.

Silk Road: Flaming Mountains

Panoramic view of the Flaming Mountains from the Bezeklik Buddhist caves

Next to the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves is the Flaming Mountains. They are called that because the ground temperatures are so high on these mountains -- up to 50 degrees Centigrade or even higher -- that no plants or animals can live here.

The red sandstone also makes the mountains look like they are "on fire".

During ancient times, merchants and Buddhist pilgrims traveling along the Silk Road would avoid the Flaming Mountains and try to find oasis towns nearby, such as Gaochang.

The valleys are caused by erosion of the sandstone.

The Flaming Mountains have also achieved literary fame through the novel Journey to the West, when a Buddhist monk makes a pilgrimage accompanied by a Monkey King who has magical powers. At one point in the story, the monk runs through a wall of flames, a fictionalized (and embellished) account of monk Xuanzang's travels to India to learn more about Buddhism.

In Journey to the West, Monkey King creates a disturbance in the heavens, knocking over a kiln that causes the embers to fall from the sky onto the place where the Flaming Mountains are.

Alternatively in a Uyghur legend, a dragon lived in the Tianshan Mountains and liked to eat little children. As a result a Uyghur hero slayed the dragon and cut it up into eight pieces. The dragon's blood turned into a scarlet mountain of blood and the eight pieces formed the eight valleys in the Flaming Mountains.

Aren't these stories of how Flaming Mountains came about wonderful and creative?

Silk Road: Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves

A view of Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves at the foot of Flaming Mountain

Buddhism came to China through the Silk Road, and the first contact point was in what is now Xinjiang. Early on the Uyghurs were Buddhists and Turpan became the centre of the religion.

One of the lasting tributes to Buddhism is the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves that are located at the bottom of the Flaming Mountains, 45 kilometres east of Turpan.

There is a range of painting styles that can be found here

These series of caves are quite amazing, in the middle of nowhere, much like the Mogao Grottoes, and whatever is left is quite impressive. The caves were built during the Southern and Northern dynasties or the 5th century through to the Tang, Song and Yuan dynasties or 14th century.

Inside the caves are beautiful murals of Buddha in the past, present and future, along with his disciples and followers painted in various styles depending on the dynasty. Some of the murals still have some vibrant colours with very intricate designs that cover every inch of space.

However around the end of the 13th century Buddhist Uyghurs were converted to Islam during a holy war when the they were conquered by the Muslim Chagatai Khanate ruler Khizr Khoja. Therefore, interest in Buddhism declined, while Islam was introduced.

The skin colour of these figures used to be pink long ago

As a result, these caves became neglected, while in subsequent centuries later robbers cut out and stole entire pieces of murals, or Muslims who were anti-Buddhist came and gouged out the eyes of and mouths of figures on the walls.

It was a pity to only see a few caves -- that are guarded nowadays by Uyghurs to ensure no one took pictures of each -- but you can see why it's so important that these caves be guarded.

Strangely these caves are not considered to be good enough to be national treasures on par with Mogao Grottoes as these ones are some of the earliest known Buddhist art work dating back to the 5th century; the Mogao Grottoes date back to the 4th century.

The intricate paintings are impressive

Some patches of murals can be seen in museums around the world, such as the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg, Tokyo National Museum, the British Museum in London and national museums in Korea and India.

Apparently some of the best pieces were afixed to the walls of the Museum of Ethnology in Berlin, but during World War II, they could not be removed and were thus destroyed in the bombing of of the city by the Allies.

It makes you wonder how many Uyghurs today know their history with regards to Buddhism and would they consider converting back?

Silk Road: Gaochang Ruins

Well-preserved ruins still standing tall at Gaochang

Another deserted city is the Gaochang Ruins, about 30 kilometres southeast of Turpan located on the edge of the Taklamakan Desert.

A main storage building in Gaochang, 30km from Turpan

From the remaining architecture, the place looked pretty sophisticated with buttressed walls and arches, and had temples too. It was originally built as a garrison town in 100 BC and was a key point along the Silk Road because travelers could stop here for food and water.

By the 14th century, it was severely damaged from wars between Mongolians and Uyghurs, and as a result Gaochang was eventually abandoned. But some of the buildings still stand and look in pretty good condition, making one wonder what life was like back then.

Gaochang was also known as a sanctuary of culture. The Buddhist monk Xuanzhaung, came here on his way to India and taught Buddhism -- we were even shown the room where he gave his lessons. There were also residents who were Christian and Manicheans, a religion based on good and evil from Iran.

The temple where Xuanzhuang gave lectures on Buddhism

We got to not only see these ruins, but also some tombs down below. One or two had Chinese calligraphy or paintings that looked detailed, featuring portraits of people. It's quite amazing that these items are well preserved and that no one has stolen them yet.

Silk Road: Emin Minaret

The Emin Minaret is decorated with bricks and has narrow windows

At 44 metres, this is the tallest minaret in China, standing next to a mosque in Turpan, Xinjiang. The tower was traditionally used to call people to prayer, but nowadays it is hardly ever used -- the Chinese government declared in August this year that loud speakers could not be used to call Muslims to observe their faith.

The tallest minaret in China stands next to a Turpan mosque

Construction on the minaret began in 1777 and was completed within a year. It was built in honour of a local Turpan general, Emin Khoja, which is why the minaret has the name "Emin".

We weren't allowed to go inside the minaret to climb the 72 steps, but it is made of wood and brick, the latter having floral designs carved on them. The tower also has several long windows at different heights to provide light and ventilation.

Next to the minaret is a mosque that is made with rough wooden beams. It's understated except for the elaborate silk carpets on the floors. For such a grand looking structure on the outside, it is quite humble and simple inside.

Inside the mosque it's bare and humble with wooden beams

However, the minaret is really the standout here, with the geometric designs and texture created by the bricks, and the fact that it's still standing is a testament to artisans over 200 years ago.

Silk Road: Jiaohe Ruins

The tall cliffs that surrounded Jiaohe as natural defenses for the town

One of the first places we visited in Xinjiang was the Jiaohe Ruins, about 10 kilometres west of Turpan.

Established about 2,000 years ago, it was a town of about 7,000 people who were Indo-European speaking Tocharians who lived on a leaf-shaped plateau that was surrounded by two deep river valleys that acted as natural defenses. The river divides into two around the town, which is why the place is called Jiaohe, or "river junction".

What's left inside are ruins from 2,000 years ago

Jiaohe used to be an important site along the Silk Road, which later became part of the Tang Dynasty, while it also became a military post in the west.

The city was considered quite sophisticated at the time, with Buddhist temples and stupas, as well as an area for government, residents and even graveyards that were further away from the city centre, but strangely there was a small cemetery for dead babies closer to the community.

However in the 13th century it was destroyed by the Mongols during an invasion, and the people abandoned Jiaohe, leaving behind ruins that were only discovered later.

Today there are just literally ruins which people can visit, though it's impossible to see the entire site. Also after a while the areas all blur together and it's hard to know what is what.

Near the city is a small cemetery for babies

Nevertheless it is amazing to think some 2,000 years ago a community of several thousand thrived here for hundreds of years and then disappeared, leaving behind clues of their existence.

Silk Road: Riding the Train to Turpan

Train staff checking to see if the platform is clear before moving on

Our visit through Gansu province was over and now it was time to board the train to Turpan in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.

The Dunhuang train station looked spanking new -- two years old we were told -- and right at the entrance we had to deal with security checks, showing our passports and putting our luggage through X-ray machines before even getting into the building.

Staff at the entrance have riot helmets and gear ready...

We arrived early so we had time to hit the loo (pretty clean) before heading to our train. Originally our Gansu-based tour guide was not going to join us -- we were going to go on our own and then meet our Xinjiang guide in Turpan.

However, we felt it was best he help us out just in case and we're so lucky he did.

Our second-class train tickets were bought months in advance; in that time period, some people had renewed passports so their passport number was different from the one printed on their ticket.

At least one person had a lot of hassle because of this and in the end had to refund her ticket and buy another one, which meant she could not sit with us. Our guide was on hand to help her out with this.

A high speed train ready to go (not ours)

If that wasn't all, there was the issue of luggage. One would think traveling by train is straight forward, but in China it's not. We easily took the escalator up to go across to the platform on the other side, but when we wanted to go down, there was no escalator, only stairs and a very steep slope to drag suitcases on the far right.

Needless to say it was a complete disaster -- people's suitcases rolled (or slid) faster than their owners and it created such mess that it was just easier, but more muscle work to carry suitcases down the stairs.

That resulted in our tour guide having to go up and down to help many of us bring our suitcases down several flights of stairs which was quite stressful given the sheer number of people also doing the same thing, and having to lift heavy loads.

Inside our train which is quite new

Finally that was sorted and gathering ourselves together we boarded the train, again our tour guide helping put many of the suitcases in the racks above. Some of us sat three to a seat, so six of us faced each other on the right, while on the left there were two seats.

The train started up quickly and we thought the staff would check tickets but they never did, and because there were many free seats some sat in other places. And then after one or two stops more people got on so we had to sit in our designated seats. 

By the way the food selection is quite dire -- there's instant noodles, drinks and chips -- including cucumber flavour. My uncle got soy bean drink with red bean, but it was the powder version which needed hot water and it turned out lumpy. One bright spot was having Haagen Daz ice cream!

One guy sitting near us had a dumbfounded look on his face watching us the whole time. He wore a black leather cap, black vest, T-shirt, glasses and boots. Sitting next to him was a woman on our tour who reported he had terrible body odour!

Finally he got off at one stop, but another man randomly sat next to her and he too stared at us. He didn't seem to belong in that seat, but what can you say? He looked a bit shifty, but that's because he felt uneasy being in a second-class cabin when perhaps he should have sat elsewhere.

Four hours later we finally arrived in Turpan, in time for dinner -- but wait we still had to deal with getting our luggage off the train and down the stairs again...

So that was our experience riding the train. One would expect it to be more convenient than the plane, but having to carry our suitcases up and down was too much!