Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts

Sunday, 22 July 2018

Review: Manolo: The Boy Who Made Shoes for Lizards

Manolo Blahnik is a man all women love for his gorgeous shoes
On the flight to Singapore, our in-flight entertainment on Cathay Pacific wasn't working and so it wasn't until more than half way through the flight that it was re-booted and we could finally watch something.

With only an hour and a half to go, I picked a quick documentary to watch -- one on the maestro of shoes, Manolo Blahnik.

The man is 75 years old now and still going strong. He was born in the Canary Islands in Spain to an Austrian-Hungarian father and Spanish mother who were well-to-do. His mother instilled a sense of style in the young boy, and he became very creative, ditching his parents' plans for him to become a diplomat and instead going to Paris and London.

During his childhood he did make shoes for lizards
His childhood memories of his home was wandering the gardens and used foil that wrapped chocolate bars and made them into shoes for lizards. Hence the title of the documentary.

Blahnik learned shoe making from his mother, who made her own shoes, and she learned through a cobbler in the Canary Islands. In the end Blahnik didn't have formal training in making shoes, but he is very involved in the entire process from beginning to end.

He also draws every shoe that he produces, and uses watercolours to paint them. He has a wonderful imagination, inspired by all kinds of things from flowers -- wisteria are his favourite -- to the sea, to colours. 

In 1970 he had an opportunity to meet Diana Vreeland, the arbiter of taste who was then the editor-in-chief of US Vogue. He was so nervous meeting her that he could barely say anything. After she looked at his drawings she declared: "Young man, make things, make accessories, make shoes."

She suggested he focus on shoes and he followed her advice.

He got his big break in 1972 to create shoes for a runway show. However, when he made the heels with rubber soles, he forgot to put steel in them to support the heel; it was really painful for the models to walk in them, that they seemed to create a new way of walking the runway. Luckily for Blahnik, the mistake turned into a blessing.

He starts off by sketching each shoe, painting by hand
Success swept up with him in the 1980s and of course the 1990s with Sex in the City -- he was overwhelmed that women were willing to drop US$500 for a pair thanks to a fictional character who was obsessed with his heels. 

And of course the film has numerous testimonials from US Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour to singer Rihanna and models Karlie Kloss and Naomi Campbell fawning over Blahnik's shoes. 

But what would have been more interesting would be to follow him from sketch to shoe, as he personally oversees every part of the shoe production. It is only towards the end of the film that the camera follows Blahnik in Italy when he visits a shoe factory. 

He puts on a white coat -- complete with a handkerchief in the pocket -- and he gets to work fashioning the heel out of wood. He is the one literally carving it and smoothing it out with the machine while a craftsman looks on. From there we watch how the shoe is fashioned, the satin sewn on, jewels set, or lace laid on top. 

His designs, colours and decorations are elegant and stylish
There is also a question about his personal life -- to which no friends can answer, and he himself would rather be busy creating more shoes. Trying to pry into someone's personal life is redundant here -- we just want to know more about how he translates ideas onto shoes.

Nevertheless it was interesting to hear about his early days, hanging out with model Bianca Jagger and actor Rupert Everett, how he was a model at one point, and how he let Wintour's toddler son create a mess in his shoe shop.

He also pays tribute to three muses -- Anna Piaggi, the eccentric editor of Vogue Italy, Isabella Blow, fashion muse, and model Tina Chow. All three women have died in the last few years, Blahnik must be missing them terribly.

In any event he continues to work, traveling to his different homes and taking in as much of nature as he can. He seems to work solitary, but is very social when he needs to be. His impeccable taste in clothes makes him practically the only man who can pull off a lilac suit.

He says he is very lucky to be able to find something he loves to do and is enjoying every moment. We're glad he is too.

Manolo: The Boy Who Made Shoes for Lizards (2017)
Directed by Michael Roberts
79 minutes

Tuesday, 11 April 2017

The First Monday in May

Remember that Guo Pei dress Rihanna wore to the Met gala?
On my flight back from Beijing to Hong Kong, I watched the documentary The First Monday in May, which follows how the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour put together the 2015 exhibition and gala, China: Through the Looking Glass.

It's a huge undertaking, combining Chinese-inspired fashion with museum pieces from the Asian Art collection, pairing outfits inspired by or look similar to actual works of art in the museum's archives. But it's not just about ancient China, it's also about Communist China, and contemporary China, featuring today's designers.


Andrew Bolton is the Costume Institute curator at the Met, his dream job since he was young. He strongly believes that fashion is an art form, something some of his colleagues in other departments don't necessarily accept, but the massive gala is a big fundraiser for the museum, something they can't ignore or look down on.

However, many heads of other departments take the opportunity, as the exhibits shape up, to express their concerns that they don't want the clothes to overshadow the museum pieces.

One exhibit showing the inspiration from Ming vases
It's a telling insight into the politics at the Met, and watching how Bolton navigates through it all.

Meanwhile clothes are already arriving at the museum for the costume department to carefully document and decide how they will arrange them in the exhibits. Different designers are interviewed, and Jean-Paul Gaultier admits he has never been to China, but in a way doesn't want to go, because he wants to have a fantasy in his mind of what China is to him.

John Galliano's fantastical dresses are also featured, Coco Chanel's vintage pieces of gold and black sequinned jackets remind you of sleek lacquered cabinets, and Vivienne Tam's homage to Imperial China and her pop-art tribute to Mao Zedong.

It's disappointing Tam wasn't interviewed in the documentary, as she would have given an interesting perspective about how her clothes shape her identity as a Hong Kong designer.

Vivienne Tam's fun Mao dress
While Wintour argues that art moves people, fashion can as well, though Gaultier says he never imagined his clothes would be in a museum.

The petite woman is a powerhouse, fierce, decisive and meticulous. Wintour is in charge of the invitation list and features all kinds of people from philanthropists, to actors, singers, artists, businessmen and politicians. Imagine having to figure out where everyone sits! Her assistant tries to keep her cool the whole time, but there's a huge snag when Rihanna and her entourage are going to cost much more than they budgeted for...

And then there are many mini crises along the way in setting up the exhibition, making deadlines even tighter and working around the clock...

There are also concerns the exhibition is a gweilo perspective of China, and the only Chinese person working directly on the project is film director Wong Kar-wai, who doesn't seem impressed by how things are panning out. He is rightly concerned that the exhibition isn't authentic enough, and also how everyone seems to want to have a hand in things.

Wong Kar-wai is concerned how the show will turn out
To an extent Wong must be familiar with these kinds of situations, or perhaps as a revered director, he is used to having everything his way?

The exhibition generated a lot of interest, and a lot of coverage of the gala, thanks to Rihanna showing up in a yellow gown by Guo Pei that many immediately pronounced it looked like an omelette or scrambled eggs, and criticized Sarah Jessica Parker's hideous headdress that looked comical.

It's a documentary that keeps your interest throughout and if anyone is interested in event planning, fashion, museum curation and art, then The First Monday in May is for you. It's a riveting eye-opener...

The First Monday in May (2016)
Directed by Andrew Rossi
90 minutes


Wednesday, 6 May 2015

Pictures of the Day: Fashion Flops

Huanhuan and Sarah Jessica Parker -- look familiar?
The big fashion event in New York Monday night was the Costume Institute Gala, an annual fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute. Vogue's Anna Wintour gets to pick the theme of the year, and it coincided with the current exhibition, "China: Through the Looking Glass".

Everyone from Hollywood actresses to singers, celebrities and models pulled out the stops to make a grand entrance on the red carpet.

Rhianna's dress resembles an omelette.... right?
The verdict? Not many laowai can pull off the China look.

There were two big flops. One was actress Sarah Jessica Parker with her red headdress designed by Philip Treacy that looked like flames coming up from her head. She resembled Huanhuan, one of the Beijing Olympics mascots, that has flames coming out of its head.

The other was Rhianna, who wore a large imperial yellow dress by Chinese designer Guo Pei, who has now found notoriety, because many people in the mainland felt the haute couture dress looked like a giant omelette.

Some people got creative with photoshop, and there's one image of Rhianna in her dress in a frying pan with SJP with her flaming headdress underneath...