Kayaking in a Marine Park in Hong Kong

On the tranquil water in Hoi Ha Wan in Sai Kung

A good friend of mine took me to her happy place the other day and I can see why. 

We met up at Tiu King Leng MTR station and took a taxi to Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park (海下) in Sai Kung. It's about a half hour trip past Sai Kung city centre and into a geo-park area. 

My friend had arranged to rent kayaks -- my first time doing it -- and after packing all our items in waterproof bags we went down to the beach with life vest and paddle in hand. There were kayaks there waiting for us and we strapped our bags in, had water bottles on hand and then paddled out into a bay area. 

Fresh green algae that is soft and fuzzy

The water was so still -- and even better there was no one there on a weekday late morning. We were also socially distanced, with each of us in our own kayaks.

After a quick lesson of how to hold the paddle we were off. As an absolute beginner I was surprised how fast my friend was paddling, but she has been doing this for over a year and looked very comfortable being in the water.

While I like swimming, for me it took a bit of time to accept the fact that I was going to be wet all day as I dipped the paddle into the water on one side, then in the other which led to water falling onto my legs and lap.

But it was so nice to be on the water, just hearing the sound of the water as we paddled. 

Our first stop was to an area where she saw a beautiful blue and yellow fish about one foot long -- I was too far away to see but saw the pictures later. There also lots of small sea urchins and sea cucumbers! As it is a protected marine park people are not supposed to take these creatures out to consume, nor should they take the coral with them.

Very low tide here with lime green vegetation

We dragged the kayaks onto the mini beach nearby and began exploring the area. I even took a quick dip in the water which was a bit cold but nice to do a bit of breast stroke after not being able to swim in a pool since December. 

My friend got her snorkel kit out and saw lots of sea creatures in the water. I was just happy to be in a place I had never been before and exploring the area around me.

We also paddled out to where the World Wildlife Fund has a marine life centre, but it is currently closed. The centre also has glass bottom boats (currently raised), that are used for visitors to admire the sea life below.

Unfortunately the temperature of the water in that area was much colder so we didn't take a dip and instead headed across the bay to another mini beach.

Sea cucumbers don't mind being touched...

When we arrived there was very low tide -- my friend had never seen it that low before, revealing lots of rocks, coral, tiny fish and speckled shells. Again we wandered around and I ever dared to touch a sea cucumber! I was surprised it just stayed there as I gently touched it -- it wasn't slimy, but soft, much like the texture when eaten! Haha.

By now it was around 3pm and we slowly made our way back to where we started. Not only did I get a chance to learn how to kayak, but also get to discover my friend's favourite place that brings her joy and tranquility to help deal with all the stress in her life.

We had good conversation, and having so much to see around us took our focus away from the pandemic that has weighed all of us down mentally and physically for over two years.

Luckily the weather was overcast so it was a nice 23 degrees or so, but when I returned home I discovered my arms were bright red from the sun! Even my back was also a bit red too despite me putting on my T-shirt and life vest every time we returned to the kayak to paddle. Strangely my right arm is redder than the left! 

A giant piece of coral on land

But also when I came back home, I could still hear the water sounds in my head and it took a while to get acclimatised back to hearing manmade urban life. Amazing.

Chinese New Year is Cancelled

Lam (middle) announcing extended measures tonight

As expected, the Hong Kong government extended social-distancing measures for another two weeks to February 3, thus effectively cancelling celebrations for Chinese New Year, which starts on February 1. 

Not only will restaurants not be able to serve dinner at 6pm, but also the traditional Lunary New Year fair is cancelled too, putting the livelihoods of flower farmers in jeopardy, as well as businesses hoping to sell festive products during the fair.

However, Chief Executive Carrie Lam Cheng Yuet-ngor claimed despite the updated measures, Hong Kong is still on track to reopen the border with the mainland. 

More people getting a jab to eat dim sum

"The latest assessment is Covid-19 is not yet under control, there's still a risk of a large-scale outbreak," Lam said -- without wearing a mask:
"If there is no major outbreak on February 4, we will restore business operations but they will be subject to vaccination requirements."

Earlier the government had said that for people to enter 15 types of businesses, including bars, gyms, theme parks and beauty parlours, and restaurants serving dinner, people would need to have at least one jab by February 24, but now that has been moved up -- a date officials have yet to announce. 

My friend YTSL got her third jab the other day and chatted with her nurse who reported many people who have come to get vaccinated are only getting their first one because they want to have dim sum with their friends.

If only Lam and Co had instituted this earlier, Hong Kong's vaccination rate would have surged significantly last year. Not much more to say except better late than never...

Some 4,700 have gone into quarantine camps

Since the first detection of the Omicron variant in the city on December 30, 60 people have been infected locally, and 4,700 sent to quarantine camps that can't keep up with the large numbers of people coming in; tests and paper work are not done efficiently, causing many administrative issues. When it is their time to leave, their tests and release papers haven't been processed yet and have to wait another day to be allowed to depart. 

"I need to apologise to the residents who had unpleasant experiences during Covid-19 testing, contact tracing and compulsory quarantine on behalf of the government," Lam said during tonight's press conference.

"I hope they can understand that we have already mobilised a lot of manpower to contain the Omicron outbreak but unfortunately we still cannot keep everyone satisfied."

Wonder if those frustrated with the government will accept her apology...

The Lam administration also promises a fifth round of subsidies worth HK$3.57 billion (US$457.7 million), but affected sectors like catering, gyms and tourism say it's a drop in the bucket when the money is all parcelled out. 

Chinese restaurants lose out on CNY business

For example, bars and restaurants that are around 1,000 sq ft can get HK$50,000 in subsidies, while instructors in special interest classes can get HK$5,000 each. Hardly compensatory. 

On top of that with fewer flights operating, there is the possibility that fresh food will be imported at a premium, and will result in food costing even more. Maybe now people will finally wean themselves off uni, wagyu, truffles and lobster... 

Memorable Lunch at Odette

Odette with its light pastel palette and high ceilings

Back in June I had a chance to try chef Julien Royer's food at a pop-up he did at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong. Despite cooking in an unfamiliar kitchen, the dishes he presented were beautifully plated, and of course delicious. I vividly remember the beetroot, and the pigeon dishes, so flavourful and not heavy.

So on my recent trip to Singapore I had to try his food again in his restaurant, Odette. It opened in 2015 in the National Gallery Singapore, the Supreme Court building re-purposed into an art gallery. Odette isn't the only restaurant -- there are many others, like National Kitchen serving Singaporean cuisine, Yan with Cantonese food, and even a bar called Smoke & Mirrors on the sixth floor.

Chef/owner of Odette, Julien Royer

But back to Odette, which is named after Royer's grandmother. He watched her cook as a child, getting all her ingredients from the farm in Auvergne, France -- he didn't grow up buying food from a supermarket like the rest of us.

After working with the likes of Michel Bras Bernard Andrieux, Royer had a chance to go to Singapore -- at the time he didn't even know where it was on the map -- and worked at the St Regis Singapore's Brasserie Les Saveurs and then Jaan, in the Swissotel The Stamford before opening his own restaurant.

A cep mushroom tea with a slice of truffle brioche

Inside it's airy with high ceilings, a very romantic palette of dusty pink, cream and beige, with an open kitchen off to the side, and diners seated in comfortable banquettes. The staff are well dressed, friendly and chatty with guests as they introduce each dish -- there is no atmosphere of condescension or arrogance. Everything is politely explained. One server admitted to us he didn't like beetroots at all -- until he tried Royer's dish that I mentioned earlier.

There is a lot of attention to detail, from how the cutlery and tableware is designed to the execution of the dishes and how they are served at the table. We also liked the pacing that gave us enough time to eat, savour and digest a bit before moving onto the next course.

 

Uni with red prawn tartare, mussel foam and caviar

So what did we eat? A lot, but we were not overly stuffed.

First a trio of "snacks" -- a mini salad in a lettuce leaf with peas, cherry tomato, onion and pea shoots that were so dainty. This was followed by a tart filled with orange gems of salmon roe that bursted when we bit into them. Finally a tiny spoon with fish mixed with vegetable.

Another starter was a mushroom soup that was poured into ceramic tea cups filled with foam, light truffle shavings and tiny croutons with truffle brioche. Even the wooden board it was served on was shaped like a cep mushroom.

 

Japanese Kegani crab "ravioli" with Granny Smith, celery

Then came bread -- a pastry with truffle paste in it, a delicious crusty sourdough bread, and another with lemon flavour. What was even more interesting was the spread -- there was whipped butter with olive oil, and the other was lard! We didn't have too much of the latter.

Finally the meal started with an impressive-looking dish of the sea urchin shell and in it was uni, spot prawn tartare, a foam made of mussels and topped with caviar and gold leaf. An intriguing combination that worked well together.

Next a "ravioli" featuring Japanese Kegani crab meat mixed with Granny Smith apple and celery, with Vadouvan spices and kaffir lime oil that was so light and refreshing. The sweetness of the crab balanced the tartness of the green apple, and added celery for a crunchy texture. Wow was all we could say.

Heirloom beetroot variation in a colourful presentation

My favourite dish arrived -- heirloom beetroot variation, featuring segments of the humble vegetable that was also made into a sorbet, mini meringue and paired with horseradish, stracciatella and even honey. The plate was too pretty to eat, but we were encouraged to mix everything together to try the various flavours.

Making a dramatic entrance was the rosemary smoked organic egg, presented in a lowly egg carton, but with dry ice flowing out of it. In it were two 63.4 degree Celsius cooked eggs flavoured with rosemary. They were carefully poured into a smoked potato foam and in it were bits of chorizo Iberico and meuniere sauce. We were instructed to mix it -- but not too much -- so that the yolk flavour would be more pronounced. Another wow.

Crispy skinned amadai in a glass bowl made its way to our table, where smoked egg consomme was poured into the bowl that was garnished with yari ika and nori oil. The fish was delicate and perfectly cooked, what an intriguing consomme of eel! Who would think of that?

 

Crispy skinned amadai in an eel consomme and nori oil

The main event is Royer's signature roast pigeon dish, here it was covered in a pepper crust and cooked medium rare. It was accompanied with another humble vegetable -- corn and here it held its own with its crunchiness and sweetness against the juiciness of pigeon. 

 

Each pigeon leg has a different message attached to it tied with string, talking about how he loved eating pigeon as a child, or how one should eat the leg with your hands. We certainly polished it off down to the bone.

Before dessert we had a cheese platter with some goat cheese, a triple cream brie, and comte, with the largest dates I've ever seen.

 

Roast pigeon with a pepper crust and message attached to it

Then we had our pre-dessert, a refreshing cucumber sorbet with seaweed sprinkled on small bits of meringue, and green apple granita. We would have already been satisfied with this dessert. But there was more.

 

The actual dessert was clafoutis, a kind of flan cake, decorated with cherries, elderflower sorbet, vanilla cream and almond slivers.

But wait -- there's more! Royer came to our table with an oval-shaped hive that revealed layers of petite fours. On top were two pomegranate lollipops, next mini matcha cream puffs, caneles, and finally homemade caramels.

In the end the damage came to S$442 or HK$2,547 (US$325) for two. Considering we had two-star Michelin dining -- and the restaurant retained its two stars the following day when the announcement was made -- it was very good value.

 

Cherry clafoutis with elderflower sorbet, vanilla and almonds

Many media at the Michelin announcement were disappointed that Odette was not elevated to three stars, but Royer insisted he was very happy for the team that the contemporary French restaurant retained its two stars and they would work harder next time.

I asked him how he felt about the media's expectations of Odette, and he pointed out the restaurant was only three years old so there was plenty of time to develop and grow. Our meal the day before was almost perfection -- why not? But then again the Michelin ratings are mired with questions of who really deserves two stars and who should get three...

 

Nevertheless we were delighted, thrilled, amazed and sated by our lunch at Odette. A chance to savour and to catch up with a dear friend who accompanied me. What a treat.

Odette

National Gallery Singapore

1 St Andrew's Road #01-04

Singapore 178957
(65) 6385 0498