Showing posts with label Great Wall. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Great Wall. Show all posts

Wednesday, 24 June 2020

An Afternoon of Art


A bronze sculpture of Wu Guanzhong by Wu Weishan (2019)

On my day off earlier this week I went to the Hong Kong Museum of Art. Last year the museum finally finished a massive renovation that took over four years and HK$930 million. The refurbishment included adding 3,000 square metres of space, though in general the layout of the museum is the same.

Some exhibitions were fascinating, others I admit to going through quickly. These were some highlights for me.

I started from the top floor down, and there are beautiful drawings and paintings of Hong Kong from decades ago by Kong Kai-ming, who is now in his late 80s. Mostly self-taught in drawing and painting using pencil, fountain pen, watercolours and oil, he has captured scenes of the city, some of them long gone now.

Tonnochy Road, Wan Chai by Kong
These include the ramshackle huts that people lived in in Shek Kip Mei, the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Station by the Star Ferry in Tsim Sha Tsui, and old apartment buildings in Wan Chai.

While the sketches illustrate his passion to capture what is in front of him, Kong is not sentimental.

"Everything has its own lifespan and when it comes to an end, it's time to say goodbye. It's the same with old buildings; when they are no longer suitable for preservation, it is time to let them go," he said in an interview in 2018.

The accomplished artist has also taught at the Hong Kong Academy of Fine Arts, First Institute of Art and Design, School of Continuing Studies at the Chinese University of Hong Kong, School of Continuing Education at Hong Kong Baptist University, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, and the Correctional Services Department, not to mention publishing over 40 art books.

On the same floor is an interesting contemporary work by Koon Wai-bong called Crisp air in a bamboo grove. He creates a "bamboo forest" with long strips of silk hanging from the ceiling and on them are bamboo trees painted in a traditional Chinese style in green ink.
There is a slight wind in the room that moves the strips and the atmosphere is enhanced with birds chirping in the background.

Bamboo trees painted on silk by Koon Wai-bong
One floor down in the hallway is Rosanna Li Wei-han's ceramic figurines that are set in everyday Hong Kong scenes. Her figures are chubby and the faces full of expression, while the miniature settings are recreated in detail. When they are looked at with Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island in the background, it really makes these mini dioramas come to life.

Also on the same floor is Kwok Mang-ho, otherwise known as Frog King, an eccentric artist who dresses up in mostly black and red outfits with frog motifs and funny glasses. Quite the character. In the museum he has his own corner, and even a small studio space; if you're lucky you might see him there.

His work is colourful (in Chinese ink and a splash of red) and funny too. A strange character for sure.

On the first floor is contemporary Chinese artist Xu Bing's seminal work, A book from the sky, that took him four years to complete.

Winslow Street scene by Rosanna Li
It takes up an entire room, with three long sheets of paper hung from the ceiling, along with several giant sheets on opposite walls, and then on the floor dozens of traditional Chinese calligraphy books opened at certain pages, others are closed.

What is most ironic about this is that Xu made up some 4,000 Chinese characters that are printed on all this paper all over the room. He managed to persuade printers to not only make the over 4,000 characters, but print them too.

Is Xu a genius for creating a roomful of gibberish? Or is the museum a fool for purchasing such a piece of "art" that either pays homage or satirizes the Chinese literary tradition, where scholars were highly regarded.

Seems like viewers could have numerous interpretations and opinions about this piece.

The exhibition I enjoyed the most was of Chinese painter Wu Guanzhong, celebrating the 100th anniversary of his birth. He died 10 years ago, and since then his pieces have fetched astronomical prices at auction, but thankfully he gifted many of his works to museums, including the Hong Kong Museum of Art.

Xu's work features over 4,000 made-up characters
Wu was born in 1919 but while he was studying art at the National Arts Academy of Hangzhou, the Sino-Japanese War broke out and he left Hangzhou, continuing his studies while moving with the academy to places like Jiangxi, Hunan and Sichuan provinces.

In 1947 he won a national scholarship from the government to study in France; his exam paper -- a copy of it in the museum -- was rated so highly because he demonstrated his knowledge of art and the history of art so well.
During his three years in Paris, Wu was drawn to the works of Camille Pissaro, Paul Cezanne and in particular was touched by Vincent van Gogh's work. Wu was impressed by van Gogh's decision of not staying in dazzling Paris, but instead the countryside that inspired his art.

The Dutch painter's life inspired Wu to return to China in 1950, but he found he and his work did not match the revolutionary style of portraying heroic workers, farmers and soldiers.

Wu's The Malan Village in pen and ink
When the Cultural Revolution began in 1966, Wu destroyed many of his oil paintings, worried the Red Guards would find them. He was later denounced as a "bourgeois formalist" and banned from painting for seven years. Then Wu was sent down to the countryside, away from his wife and family.

Later in the 1970s he was finally allowed to paint -- once a week. He used that precious time to paint on cardboard and he used a basket as his easel, which was typically for collecting animal dung. Like van Gogh, he painted rural scenes.

He eventually developed his definitive style, moving from realism to beautiful line drawings in ink, meticulously drawn, that later became more and more abstract to dots on the paper.

One particular painting was very interesting, called Leaving youth behind (2009). It's an ink brush painting of lotus leaves and stems that are limp and dying.

Leaving youth behind reflects Wu himself
Wu once said: "Lotus is a popular subject matter in traditional Chinese painting, but those conventional lotus paintings cannot move me emotionally. The interlaced leaves of all sizes in the lotus pond is an intricate maze of straight and curved lines. Even their shadows are engulfed in the leaves, it is difficult to tell whether the leaves are above or under the water. I seem to be an insect under the leaf, being lost in this labyrinth of flowers and leaves."

For this particular painting, Wu recalled while the Gang of Four was in power, he went to Beihai Park in Beijing during the winter and the lake was frozen, but the withered lotus leaves and stalks were not cleared away.

"High and low they stood, their bodies all black and bruised, like a bunch of mummies standing. Qi Baishi has drawn many paintings of withered lotus, but never was there this powerful touch of tragedy. They reminded me of Rodin's The Burghers of Calais. I was driven by a strong urge to draw these frozen lotus carcasses... I even thought for a time that the frozen lotus carcasses were in fact a reflection of me."

The Great Wall has dynamic brushstrokes
His painting The Great Wall (1988) is so dynamic, showing the Great Wall winding its way over mountains and hills like snakes. One can't help but be drawn into the painting and feel the energy of his brushstrokes.

Hong Kong is very lucky to have many of Wu's works for everyone to see and appreciate his life and passion for art.





Sunday, 30 September 2018

Hiking Up the Great Wall


The view of the Great Wall is always stunning -- if you climb up onto it
I can say that I've been up the Great Wall at least five times now -- Badaling, Mutianyu, Jinshanling, Jiayuguan, the furthest west section, and now Simatai.

Each time the landscape is amazing -- well at least the last four. Badaling is just a sea of people crowded on the wall.

WTown is a nice tourist attraction in itself
This time a friend who can read Chinese helped us figure out how to get to Simatai. At 9am we met at Dongzhimen bus station (northeast corner) and got onto the 980 bus that left shortly after we got on. It was about an hour drive before the bus arrived at Miyun Qiao Xi stop and we got off, crossed the road and then took the 51 bus all the way to Simatai.

The second bus was quite the experience -- we were sitting shoulder to shoulder with real locals, farmers who lived in the area, which ranged from very rural looking with cornfields to suddenly looking very developed with four-way stops and grocery stores.

People on the bus talked very loudly even though they were sitting next to each other, including a trio of young women wearing the same yellow sweatshirt and constantly on their phones chatting online with their friends.

At one point, one of them peeled a mandarin orange and was so enthralled with the fresh scent that she broke off two small pieces of the peel and stuck them in her nose. How attractive.

The town is picturesque and looks pretty authentic!
Finally three hours later we arrived at Beijing WTown, the address is Simatai Village in Gubeikou Town in Miyun District.

Some tourism sites say WTown looks fake, but to us it looked pretty authentic. Remove the gaudy new signage and modern snacks like ice cream, and it could easily be the set of a period drama. The buildings looked pretty real complete with nice Chinese-style doors and windows, while there are many nice camera angles of the waterways complete with boats gliding along the water.

The 170 kuai admission includes entering the town and the Great Wall, but the real ploy is to get visitors to hang out in the town and spend, spend, spend -- and even stay overnight in the town as there are hotels there.

At the third watchtower looking back
But our mission was the Great Wall and after a hearty lunch of Taiwanese beef noodles -- ordered on WeChat -- and we quickly walked through the town to get to the entrance of the wall.

We had to walk about 1km on a hilly path to get to the actual wall, so by the time we arrived our hearts had already had a workout. This section has 10 watchtowers, though the first one is across the river on the other side and not connected so we were actually starting at the second watchtower.

The climb here was very steep! We were all breathing heavily walking up the narrow steps and tried to keep going at a steady pace. There were several people on the wall -- including people carrying babies, but not a massive crowd -- perhaps they were too busy taking selfies in the town below.

Every time we looked back, the landscape was stunning. We kept climbing and taking pictures until we reached the seventh watchtower and a kindly middle-aged man told us this was as far as we could go.

How come? We asked.

He explained the rest of the wall was being reinforced and it would take two months. But by this point we were pretty tired and had done a good chunk of this section of the wall. At this point there was just a pair of German tourists, a middle-aged Hong Kong couple, and us.

A staff member telling us to turn back
We walked down to the sixth watchtower which was 500 metres from the cable car and we took that down for 90 kuai each. The ride lasted just under six minutes and it was another dramatic view of the area. We were surprised only a handful of people were taking the cable car up to see the wall!

Down at the bottom we took a bathroom break -- washrooms here were extremely clean -- and then made a beeline for the exit. We had already missed the 3pm shuttle but weren't about to wait until 5pm for the next one so we waited for the 51 bus to get back.

This time farmers were taking their goods into town -- one elderly woman had bags full of giant leeks, cabbages and even a bag full of peanuts. Taking the 980 bus back to town took longer as we arrived during rush hour. But we got back safely and very hungry!

Beijing WTown
Simatai Village, Gubeikou Town
Miyun District, Beijing
www.wtown.com
www.smtgreatwall.com

Thursday, 27 September 2018

Picture of the Day: Great Wall at Simatai

A view of the Great Wall from the seventh watchtower at Simatai
This morning my friends and I headed to the Great Wall, a part that I'd never been to, at Simatai, the most remote area outside of Beijing.
It took us three hours to get there by bus, and then after a quick lunch of Taiwanese beef noodles, we headed to the entrance.

We didn't chicken out and take the cable car, but instead walked to the second of 10 watchtowers and started walking up. It was quite the workout because it was quite steep, but it was the amazing views that kept us going.

However when we were almost at the top of the seventh watchtower, there was a staff member there standing behind some rope with a sign that said "stop" in English.

He explained we couldn't go any further because the wall was being reinforced and would take about two months.

Before we left we asked him to take a picture of us, but we also took several to remind us of the panoramic view of the wall from the top of the seventh tower.

To get down we walked to the sixth watchtower and then about 600 metres to the cable car station.

Wednesday, 27 December 2017

Don't Visit Beijing in 2018

Fodors is advising people not to visit the Great Wall of China...
US travel guide Fodors has a list of warnings of where people should not go in 2018.

When it comes to China, don't go to the Great Wall. Fodors says the deterioration of swathes of the structure as the reason to stay away, and the same goes for the Forbidden City because of the horrible pollution levels in Beijing.

... or the Forbidden City because of Beijing's pollution
And unless you're a seasoned climber, don't risk your life (six people died there this year) or money (US$25,000 to US$45,000) going up Mount Everest.

Some of the other places the guide suggests not visiting are:

The Galapagos Islands because of the fragile ecosystem that is impacted by tourists;

The Taj Mahal's dome is being cleaned for the first time in 369 years and probably won't be ready until 2019;

Myanmar should be avoided because of its ethnic cleansing of the ethnic Rohingya;

Don't take unnecessary risks climbing up Mount Everest
And avoid Honduras as it's one of the most deadliest places on earth because of its murder rate.

There are places that don't want tourists -- they are Venice and Amsterdam where there is a backlash against visitors. Fodors suggests staying away from these cities too.

Sunday, 15 October 2017

Silk Road: Jiayuguan and the Great Wall

Visiting Jiayuguan, the western outpost of the Great Wall
Jiayuguan was the last part of the Great Wall before heading towards Central Asia. It was built during the Ming Dynasty with stones, bricks and rammed earth, those these days it's been fixed up for tourists.

Tourists sampling some Peking opera at Jiayuguan
It was here that people had to have passports if they wanted to travel beyond the Great Wall along the Silk Road. The passport was a document in calligraphy that had their name and the emperor's seal on it. Outside of the Great Wall were the nomads called Xiongnu, Mongolians and Tibetans, basically barbarians.

Today's tourism officials have tried to spiff up Jiayuguan by making tourists feel like they are going back in time. There are "guards" standing by the gates and later on they parade around a "prisoner" in a wooden shackle before they start showing off some amateur martial arts routines.

Around the corner up on a high but small stage are Peking opera performers in costume complete with musicians. Did the audience really have to crane their necks to see the show back in the day? Just wondering.

One tourist giving his best drumming performance
There were also some odd-ball amusements -- literally. Our tour guide was so excited to shoot tennis balls from a mini cannon at a target that he did it twice, for 20 kuai for each round.

One of our fellow travelers paid 10 kuai to be able to hit a massive drum 10 times. However, instead of just banging the drum, he did a little dance routine as well, much to the amusement of local visitors.

Tourists could also purchase the "passport", where your name would be written in calligraphy and stamped with the Imperial seal. Strangely not many interested in getting the "modern antique" document.

People needed to carry passports to go beyond this pass
After our visit, we headed to a nearby part of the Great Wall, called The Overhanging Wall. It's called that because it looks like it is clinging onto the cliff. It also apparently has the nickname "Western Badaling" because it looks similar to the popular part of the wall near Beijing.

Our tour guide challenged us to climb up to the top, so five of us women took it on with aplomb. It took around 20 minutes to get up, and climbed over 400 steps. My aunt and I were the first to go, and it wasn't too difficult a climb, just that it got steeper and we stopped periodically to catch our breath.

When we almost got to the top, I heard a small boy's voice shout, "Ayi, jia you!"

I climbed the Overhanging Wall!
I looked up to see a boy, about five years old looking down at us and smiling with three other male adults. He kept shouting, "Ayi jia you!" "Auntie, add oil [keep going!] and I thanked him for the encouragement.

I regret not taking a picture of him before he scampered off again to the next section of the wall. We soaked up the amazing view below, celebrated our summit with three others before making it down again. Now I can say I've visited four parts of the Great Wall -- Badaling, Mutianyu, Simatai all near Beijing, and now the Overhanging Wall in Gansu province!

Monday, 9 October 2017

Silk Road: Lanzhou

Taken from our bus, there are many terraced hillsides in Gansu province
Our Silk Road tour started in Lanzhou, the capital city of Gansu province. It is home to 6.3 million people, of which 3.7 million people live in Lanzhou. That's probably because there are seven ethnic groups who live here, including Tibetans, Hui, Dongxiang, Mongolians and Kazak, as well as Han Chinese.

What you first notice about the province is that it's very mountainous. While Lanzhou is situated on the upper reaches of the Yellow River, not everyone has access to water, and so hardy crops are grown, such as corn, millet, and dates. When we rode along the highway we could see terraced fields on hilly areas -- they were in such remote locations, but if there are terraces, there are people.

Two sheep taking a ride on the highway...
Historically and geographically Lanzhou was an important strategic point along the Silk Road leading to the west towards Xinjiang and Eastern Europe, and east towards Xian. And during the Sino-Japanese war, the Lanzhou corridor was crucial to the Communists in transporting Soviet supplies to Xian. It was so well protected that the Japanese were not able to take Lanzhou. 

In ancient times, the Great Wall was also extended to Yumen to protect Lanzhou, and we got to see this place a few days into our trip.

Today's modern Silk Road still considers Gansu province an important one -- geographically it is right in the middle of China, and so all transport links go through here.

However, not all the roads are paved smooth, nor efficient. Some highways were single-lane traffic, which mean waiting until the opposite lane was clear before passing trucks carrying cars, fuel, equipment, sheep and pigs.

As a result our tour guide would never give us a definitive number on how many hours we would be on the road because if there was a traffic jam, or single-lane traffic, it could slow us down immensely and he wanted to manage our expectations.

Periodically we would encounter toll areas where security officers would come on board to check us and our passports. One time one officer looked long and hard at us before he finally advised us all to wear our seat belts.

Facing north, the Qilian mountains in the distance
Nevertheless, it was pretty amazing to see so many trucks on the road, but perhaps it was the only way to get goods to remote areas that were not necessarily near the railroad system. It makes you appreciate North American and European highway systems so much more!